Wednesday, November 29, 2017

Joshua Tree Secret

Rolled out of bed the other morning at five a.m. Not unusual for many people. For me, for Maureen and me, damned unusual. People post these beautiful sunrise photos. Dew on the grass, etc. We post sunset photos. Sunrise is hard. The coffeemaker needs 20 minutes. Then I have to stumble around a bit and find the cream and then there's yawning. Yawning takes another ten minutes, easy.

Anyway, we arose at the unholy hour, dressed, poured coffee into the travel mugs, threw our packs and water bottles in the Smart car and took off the eight miles or so to the North entrance of Joshua Tree National Park. Our intent was to see a really dark sky and, as it relented, some animals. Most animals are most active around sunrise and sunset. Sunset is hard. It's wine time. And, I'm usually hungry and it gets dark, really fast. So, we thought we'd try our hand at dawn. Zoomed past the unattended entrance gate and into the park.

Side note, Joshua Tree is a DarkSky Silver Award winner. I don't know what that requires but it means it is a really good place to lay back, well bundled, in a lawn chair or on the toasty warm hood of your car (headlights off, please) to view the wonders of the night sky as our ancestors enjoyed it. We missed that because of the three nights we were there it was cloudy and windy the first night. Second night we'd walked the whole day from mid-morning to mid-afternoon and we were really sleepy. (This is a vacation, right!?) And, the third night it was so cloudy we could barely make out the moon. So, before dawn should be good. This seems an oxymoron, but 05:00 was too late. Sun was giving the sky that rosy-finger thing. Arrgh. Now, one night from JTNP, we're parked in the middle of an urban sprawl and, from what I can see, it's clear up there.

One of the pieces we'd read about Joshua Tree NP said many parks can tell you where to go to see animals. At Joshua Tree they cannot. The animals could be anywhere. So, with that advice we decided it didn't matter where we went, so long as it wasn't close to the road. Recognize, this is a big park. Maybe 70 miles side to side and 25 miles top to bottom. Two types of desert abut there; Coloradan and Mojave - they may even - commingle. The animals, they keep to themselves.

Dawn pouring over the red hills in Joshua Tree National Park

We drove ten or twelve miles in. Found a soft road and led a cloud of dust into the desert toward the rocks. We stopped several times. The air was crisp and clear. We didn't see one damn animal. (I always wonder how many saw us.)

We did hear two wonderful things: first coyotes. It seems they do a good morning and good night howl. We've been out in the SW before and around dawn and dusk they call out from their respective haunts in yelps, barks and those plaintive howls. It's a census report. If there are too many around they're less likely to mate and add to the population. Males of all species being what they are I suspect there are a lot of alphas out there giving a little half-hearted yip, and going back to the den saying "Really quiet out there."

In their defense, the other thing you hear is real silence. No cars, no planes, no constantly blathering pubescent boys, no one shouting at crying babies, no giggles of girls, no radios, no mufflerless motorcycles, no cell phones, no goddamn leaf blowers, no car alarms, no newscasts, no yarp yarp, yap yap, psycho psuedo-dogs, no concussive car stereos. Just silence. At most the soft hush of the chill through dry branches. Then the breeze lays and there is nothing. We stop moving so that precious silence is undisturbed by the rustle of our own clothes or the crunch of sand underfoot. Keep it quiet, but pure silence is wonderful and, like truly dark skies, far too rare.


Make your choices, lose the weight

In the 90s my wife took up jogging. She ran mid-10 minute miles and finished several half marathons. I'm a decade older than her, asthmatic and not nearly as disciplined. Our fitness was so dissimilar I went to our family physician (Dr. George DeSilvester) for help with my breathing. When that improved I tried doing a single eight-minute mile. Hey, it got me out and exercising. I never made my goal. Missed it by a few seconds late one fall, stopped for the winter and never tried again.

Late one summer in the mid-aughts I was driving, windows down, letting my mind drift and realized that in a few months I would be turning sixty. Sixty! Man. That jolted me out of my daydreams and into a very late, pretty minor, mid-life crisis. Sixty. Damn. I couldn't go quietly down that ever steepening hill. I had to do something. Hah! I decided that the next spring I would run the Indianapolis Mini-Marathon with my wife and several of her siblings, nieces and nephews.

When she was training, Maureen would rise early in the winter dark and take off on her runs before readying herself for the office. I'd be up, but only to watch, a little anxiously, with my coffee, for her return. Doing my asthma meds and getting my energy up to run at that time of day was not something I had the umpah for.

However, I worked from home and would go out midday. Much more civilized. (I couldn't keep up with her anyway.) I found Hal Higdon's plan that showed me how to progress to my first half in a few months. I signed up for Runners World magazine and read about shoes, training regimens and found heroes. Not celebrities, but people who ran for the joy of it, even through the pain of it.

Maureen and I both did the Mini that year. Over the next few years I grew a little faster and her knee started hurting. We jogged a couple more together, she skipped one or two, then she had to stop. The last one she gutted through and at the finish line they packed her knee in ice and brought her to us in a wheelchair. Others in her family walked it or ran it - she has a brother who is a fireman who ran it many time in the sevens; not a runner's body, but a fireman's willpower and tolerance for pain. Then our daughter ran a couple - mostly, I think, so I'd have someone to run with. Her hips hurt too much and she had to stop. Her husband hadn't been a runner and got into it; really got into it. Lean and determined he runs the Mini in low sevens! Like his uncle(-in-law) - largely on willpower.

Our Son-in-Law, Joe - the Runner - and Lindsey, our favorite daughter.
Three years ago I did the Mini in the spring and the Indy Half, out on the Fort Benjamin Harrison grounds in the fall. That's a good schedule for me. Keeps me out year round. However, two years ago shortly before the Mini I twisted my knee and took the summer off. Then I took the winter off and much of this past summer. Now I'm back at it. No knee brace. No Aleve. No pain. I am jogging with orthotics in my shoes. And, I'm much slower. It always took me a while to get my rhythm back in late winter, but this year, after two off, is so much harder. It's as though I've never run before. Couldn't be age could it? It's only twelve years since I started. Now I'm in the lower half of a higher age bracket - I could be a contender. IF I could keep jogging and not keep pausing to walk and gasp. But, I remember this is how it was when I started. I just need to train through it.
Me; tired, sweaty, unshaven, bad hair and happy another jog is done.
I finally resumed running every other day about a month ago. Recently, I've run in Scottsdale and several times along the beach in San Diego. If your going to be out there plodding along, those are great places to do it. Today I baked in the hot, dry sun of Quartzsite. Over the years I've jogged in Philadelphia, on the beaches and streets on Kiawah, in Shanghai, Shaoxing, Nanjing, Milan, Denver, Telluride and many times along the Promenade in Kowloon, Hong Kong. Wherever you are, jogging is a wonderful way to get out, see the area and the people, shake off jet lag and clear your mind for the day. (99.3% of places aren't as dangerous as someone has told you. Get out there. Smile. Jog.)

At 71 my resting heart rate is in the upper 40's. Blood pressure is good. I can sleep pretty well, eight to ten hours a night. My weight is within a couple pounds of when I graduated high school. (And I'm healthier now.) My asthma is well managed and I feel happy and rested most of the time. Asthma inhalers are the only meds I take. I am lucky beyond belief. Much of that is due to Maureen's decades of patiently easing me into a healthier lifestyle; away from red meats, kielbasa, fast food, butter-slathered popcorn, vodka and bourbon and into what I call grains, greens and beans . . . and red wine; good ol' red wine.


We enjoy eating this way. Real, fresh foods give us everything we need.
We have not given up flavor. We've given up a lot of fat, salt and added sugar so we may enjoy more and more subtle flavors. I now honestly don't like the flavor of most burgers and steaks. I'll get a veggie burger or fish if available and usually not eat the bun. Most soups are too salty for my taste. I haven't had a soda for years and don't miss them a bit. If I see someone walking around with a Big Gulp I feel compassion for the suffering they have ahead. I try not to preach, but if given an opening everyone knows I will coach like crazy. "Portion control!!!" (I know I'm a pain-in-the-butt, but I want you to live longer and feel better. :-)

Some people say my good fortune so far is genetic. And some of it must be, my birth mother lived to 105. But, she and I must also have deadly genes in our make up. We just haven't done bad things to our bodies long enough to let those genes express themselves, or we've done good things to our bodies often enough that our healthy genes are expressed instead. As far as this interested layman can tell, that is the secret to having the healthiest life we can. Luck can still screw us up and none of us get out of this alive, but, do the best you can.

My favorite saying is by Benjamin Disraeli who was twice the UK's Prime Minister, serving Queen Victoria, the last time for six years ending in 1880. Modernized, Disraeli said,
 We've recently learned that is even true with the genes in our very cells. Treat yourself well.


Saturday, November 25, 2017

Favorite Places


“Of all the places you visited so far, what is your favorite?”
OK, that is a difficult question to answer since we are seeing so many parts of the western U.S. for the first time. The variety of landscapes in this vast, beautiful country is truly amazing. I reflect on the places we’ve been and think "would I want to go back and spend more time exploring?" For almost each place we’ve seen, I have to say YES. Definitely, yes! However, to pick just one location to be my favorite over all the rest is just not possible. Yet. Here’s how I can rate the places we've seen so far based on favorite attribute.
  1. For sunshine and warmth, Arizona is #1. Warmth may be an understatement for some of the days we’ve enjoyed here, but give us a hot sunny day anytime over a cold, rainy day in Indianapolis. 
  2. For picture-perfect sunsets and friends generous and dear, it’s strong tie between Scottsdale Arizona and San Diego California. Friends, you know who you are and we love you all! 

    San Diego sunset
  3. For fantastic skies of varying weather and mountains in all directions, the Norwood-Telluride, Colorado top the list so far. 

  4. For impressive canyon views and breath-taking hiking trails, Utah won me over. Arches and Canyonlands National Parks near Moab and Zion National Park to the southwest were simply gorgeous. Driving through the GrandStaircase-Escalante National Monument on our way to Zion National Park, we saw a rainbow of color in the geologic progression of buttes and canyons.
    delicate arch_arches national park
    Arches

    grand view overlook
    Canyonlands
  5. Biggest disappointment of the trip was not being able to see Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. They were tops on our list to see for our 34th anniversary (Sept. 25), however the Artic freeze came down from Canada too early this fall. Our RV, quite frankly, is not well-equipped to endure below freezing temps for any length of time. With snowfall of 6-8” accumulation and a hard freeze with nights in the teens by Sept. 20th, we had to move south. We wasted no time and drove south to lovely Moab, Utah. We were not disappointed once there.
  6. Big Bend Recreational Area, part of the federal Bureau of Land Management (BLM), was a delightful surprise. 7-8 miles northeast of Moab, right along the Colorado River, we stayed at this dry campground for 5 nights. Narrow windy roads, tall red-orange canyon walls, and cool starry nights.
  7. For beautiful state parks, historical national parks and monuments and abundant wildlife in plain view, all in relative close driving proximity, southwestern South Dakota captured my heart. 
    Badlands

    Mount Rushmore
    Pronghorn antelope at Custer State Park

  8. For hypnotizing ocean views and year-round floral landscapes filled with birds and palms of all kinds, San Diego earns top spot. 
  9. La Jolla Cove was a great place to peer through a telephoto lens and get lost watching the seals and sea lions, the pelicans and seagulls, the people and the planes, all while keeping an eye on the ocean for the “tail-tale” signs of whales breaching the waves. 
  10. Best state park also holds a tie between Custer State Park in South Dakota and Catalina State Park just north of Tucson Arizona. 
    Legion Lake at Custer State Park
Catalina State Park

Overall, we’ve been quite impressed by all the parks and hiking trails in Arizona. We’ve enjoyed the regional parks around Phoenix, such as McDowell Mountain Ranch, Cave Creek and the Gateway Loop Trail, which is part of the McDowell Sonoran Preserve. We attended an awesome stargazing event at Cave Creek Regional Park the first night camping there. We loved the trails and wildlife of the state parks such as Tonto National Bridges near Payson, where we saw a hovel of javelina during the day; and Catalina State Park in Oro Valley, where we attended a fantastic Nature Program and participated in informative hiking walks on birds and geology. We did the Cave Tour at Kartchner Caverns State Park, southeast of Tucson.

In our rush to Utah’s Zion National Park and Bryce Canyon National Park before the freezing temps hit, we sped right through Page in northern Arizona and bypassed beautiful areas such as Antelope Canyon, Horseshoe Bend, and The Wave. So, we will just have to plan another trip to Arizona next year. And previously, we’ve visited some of Arizona’s national parks and national monuments highlighting unique geologic formations and landscapes, such as Grand Canyon to the northwest, Canyon de Chelly to the northeast and Saguaro National Park to the southwest. This trip called for new xsplorin’.

Looking forward to sharing more favorite places as we travel onward.

9 Things We Learned Buying Our RV

In August of 2017 our daughter told us she was due to deliver our first grandchild in March, 2018.
We'd talked about taking a grand tour of the American West. It had been a someday thing. That bit of news gave us a sense of urgency. We have two children. We'd seen the changes in the first few years of life and didn't want to miss that with our daughter's little one. That weekend we started looking at RVs on local lots and on line.

1. We started out thinking we would buy a used Mercedes Sprinter outfitted by Airstream.
Pricey, yes, but we anticipated no problems with "materials and workmanship." We thought we could keep it a long time and it would retain it's value. We could drive it right up to any attraction or restaurant. We ended up going the other way. The Mercedes/Airstreams do hold their value. Great if you're selling, not so great when you're buying. More important to our decision was that they are really small inside. Seems evident, since they're small outside, compared to other RVs, but we're small people and thought it could be okay. Nope. Too tight to live in day in day out for six months. If you're weekending, may be great for you.

2. We didn't want to tow another vehicle.
Since the kids started driving we've only had small cars. My wife, Maureen, has a Prius. I have a Volt. (Yes, we're those kinds of people. Our son had a Smart ForTwo; made ours look like land-yachts.) We wanted a single vehicle we could drive on the interstates, on city streets, park and unhook with ease. Another nope. We couldn't find an RV with enough room inside without being too big on the outside to let us comfortably traverse busy city streets - or curving, precipitous mountain roads. But, we really didn't want to be driving some long multi-segmented rig. Too bad. That's what we have.

3. OK, we're going to have to tow something.
Buying a travel trailer is very popular. You get more square foots for the monies. We didn't own anything big enough to pull one. We have owned minivans, Daddy-mobiles, Mom's Taxi, etc. So, thought about buying an SUV. Learned, however, that trailers pulled behind an SUV, etc. are not nearly as stable as a fifth-wheel. Much more susceptible to swaying, fish-tailing, oscillating back there until it comes around and you look out the side window and see your trailer gaining on you. Bad situation. Fifth-wheels put the pivot point in front of the tow vehicle's rear wheels. So, you put a big ol' fifth wheel hitch in the bed of your pick-up and you are ready to hit the road. Get to the campsite, put down the levelers, unhook the pick-up and drive off to see the park or check out a restaurant in town in your pick-me-up. However, we didn't own a pick-up, so two things to buy and a car to sell. Ugh.

4. Motor homes are class conscious.
Self-propelled motor homes come in different classes, each with some variations. Class A's are the big bus-sized boxes. Most are "diesel pushers" meaning they have a diesel engine in the very back - like a bus. Class Bs are small - often fitted-out vans: the Mercedes Sprinter or the VW Vanagon. Class C's are built on truck "chassis" and are in between. The RV manufacturer buys a truck front end with the long chassis behind it. Then they build a box on the back that is the living area, called the "coach." Those are the two parts of RVs - chassis and coach.

5. Class A's don't have airbags.
You haven't seen me drive. Maureen has. (As we travel the US I realize that's a more stressful spectator sport than I'd thought.) We were sitting in the big, plush seats of a Class A admiring that massive windshield. I was thinking of the views of mountains, prairies and pounding surf we'd see through all that glass. She was thinking how close and hard it was and how we'd look like bugs on the inside of it if I drove into a stopped semi. We asked about airbags and crush zones. The salesman said you don't need them on a Class A, you have an I-beam wrapped around you - about knee high. Yeah. The reason modern cars are so much safer than the boxy behemoths of my youth is they crush - and have airbags. Crushing sure raises repair costs, but it absorbs the energy of the crash. The front bumper hits the other object at full speed, that bumper, the hood and fenders start crumpling and the cabin, where you're sitting, slows. The engine is shoved under the floorboards. By the time the crash gets to you (milliseconds later) you're not traveling as fast as your bumper was. You then hit the airbags and settle back in your seat to say something like "Damn!" (Exclamation may vary.)

6. Class C's have a shadow hanging over them.
One of the defining characteristics of a Class C is they put a bed over the driver and passenger seats. Sometimes it drops down, sometimes it's fixed, but starting right behind the two front seats is a full size bed that juts out over the windshield. We crawled down into the cockpit of a nice Class C and looked out through the windshield. No views up canyon walls from there. Sure, it'll keep the sun out of your eyes most to the day, but, it's dark under there. And, we only needed one bed. Just us two, thank you.

7. This is America - everything has options.
There is a type of Class C they call a Class B Plus. That's not confusing is it? Class B+s are almost the same size as C's but don't have the neanderthal uni-brow. They put storage over the cockpit and the top front of the coach pretty much follows the line of the windshield. Not as impressive a view as a Class A, but more see than a C. We decided on a 32 ft. Gulf Stream BTouring Cruiser - a B+.

8. RV Manufacturers just send "kits" to the dealers.
This is a real boom time for RVs. This happens, the RV industry is really susceptible to boom and bust. The stock market has been climbing almost unabated for nine years. People have been feeling flush for quite a while. They used to think home prices only go up. They now believe the stock market only goes up. So they buy something fun - an RV.  While they are so busy, and maybe before, the manufacturers slap all the parts together and rush the units out the door to the dealers. Never ever pick up a new RV on which the dealer has not had two or three or more days to perform a full PDI; Pre-Delivery Inspection. We didn't do that. Being the cagey negotiator I am, I didn't want to seem too  eager until we'd really checked out the unit and talked price, etc. As soon as we agreed, the dealer -  Sunny Island RV in Rockford, Illinois - said, "We'll need two full days to do an inspection and have it ready for you." They were six hours from our home - 'nother story. We had appointments the next day at home. They spent three hours going through it and explaining it to us. Wasn't enough. Once we were on the road we discovered we had missing cables, furnace didn't work, coach battery wouldn't charge, gray tank leaked, levelers wouldn't level, sink traps leaked, hot and cold faucets reversed, water heater didn't work, water connector leaked, etc., etc., etc. It really needed the two days. We've learned a lot more about RVs than we expected. Luckily we're both pretty calm, logical and handy. Still, it's taken three months and a lot of effort and stress to get our RV to a point where it's a pleasure, not a challenge.

9. Spend the time now or spend (more) time later.
We drove it home and over the next couple days, as we tried it out and loaded it, started noticing things. We made a list and immediately sent it to our dealer. The head of service - who must spend the entire day, every day on the phone - called us back to walk us through the questions. That helped some. Less than two weeks after we bought our new 32 ft. Class B+ we took off from home towing our son's Smart ForTwo. It's now nearly three months into our trip. Our RV just spent three weeks having one of its slides fixed. We planned to be close to friends when we put it in for service. If we hadn't had great, generous, patient friends nearby we would have been living in a hotel all that time.


10. Dealers only want to work on what they sold.
We just keep learning. Think of this, number 10, as a bonus.
We mentioned that boom time that the RV industry is now enjoying? It has service departments backed up by months. If you have a bad water pump or your furnace doesn't work and you're at home you can not go camping or take short jaunts to warm places. If you're on a six month grand tour over deserts and mountains you gotta have water, heat, cool, etc. And, like with ours we needed to have our slides go out and come back in. Luckily we found some nice guys in Mesa, Arizona - Scottsdale Motor Group - seems they'd be in Scottsdale, right? Nope; RVs. They were willing to work on our screwed up coach, even though they weren't the selling dealers and the factory was being difficult.

We're happy we're out here. We're happy with the unit now that it's working. We would have done some things differently if we knew then what we know now. Hey, experience. Right?

Tuesday, November 7, 2017

This Thing is in the Wrong Place!

I watched Close Encounters like everyone else with a pulse. Making the Devils Tower out of mashed potatoes, or paper mache, etc. Those wonderful deep notes, the hand signs. Cool.
Who knew Devils Tower is in Wyoming? Eastern Wyoming, almost South Dakota!
Is it just me? I thought it was in Nevada or Arizona, maybe New Mexico. Doesn't it look like it belongs there, among all those other mesas, tablas, table rocks of the Southwest?
Nope.
Sits out on the edge of wheat farmland. Well, almost. There are the badlands and smaller mountains not too far away. But, nothing like the tower.
Neat thing about Devils Tower. In the late 1800s, a couple of ranchers, Bill Rogers and Willard Ripley, possibly high on milk from cows who ate loco weed - or just weed, decided to climb Devils Tower. Impress the neighbors, etc. make a few bucks, since ranching was slow.
So, if you're going to climb 900 feet of nearly vertical rock columns, what do you need?
A ladder, a really long ladder. a long vertical crack on the side of the tower then fastened them together on the outer edge with boards. The crack and its ladder took the daredevil rancher Willard Ripley up about 35 stories, until he could reach a sloping area and climb to the top, becoming, in June 1893, the first person known to summit the Tower.
A few days later, the 4th of July, they had attracted a crowd of 800 people to watch Bill Rogers, dressed like Uncle Sam climb to the top and wave an American flag.
On the 4th, three years later, probably tired of hearing about his feat, his wife took the same route and became the first woman to top Devils Tower.
A refurbished upper portion of the ladder is still there for visitors to the National Monument to see.